IKEA items used: RIBBA frame (21×30 cm)

I wanted a modern bed for fashion dolls, but those are usually either pink or very expensive if you have them made by an artist.

The 21x30cm RIBBA frame is exactly the right size for Barbie, Monster high, small BJD’s and other fashion dolls.
As you can see in the pictures, the IKEA PS shelves can also be used as very modern dollhouses.

Here’s how:
1. Take the sheet of glass out of the frame.
2. Glue the wooden backdrop to the frame and glue black fabric on it.

3. Glue 4 pearls or pieces of wood to the underside as feet.

4. Build a slatted frame out of wooden staffs.

5. For the headboard, you can use a piece of wood or plastic and cover it with fake leather.

6. Glue the headboard to one side of the frame.
7. Sew a mattress. I used satin and stuffed it with pieces of fleece.

8. Decorate it

~ by Kathrin Schnitzler

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IKEA items used: TROFAST storage boxes

Here is an incredibly easy hack I did which solved two problems:

1. Preventing toys and shoes from getting pushed under my daughter’s crib,

2. Adding much needed storage space for kids’ clothes.

First, I tried using Ikea’s KUSINER, which had worked so wonderfully as a drawers underneath a critter bed. But they were too tall, and even when I tried modifying the height, I still was losing storage space, as I could only fit one.

Then I thought…TROFAST!
And then I thought… With a drawer front!

I was lucky enough to have an extra wooden bar which had come with my crib (but was no longer needed, as it had a defect and had already been replaced). I cut this to the appropriate length, and sanded the edges to make it safe. I tried gluing felt pads to it wouldn’t scratch the feet of the crib when the drawer slid in and out, but they fell off, and I’ve let the issue slide (pun intended).

Next, I lined up the four Trofast boxes and determined how high the drawer front should be attached, so that when the draw was closed, it would fit nicely with the crib.

Using a driver, and two screws for each drawer, I easily secured the four small TROFAST boxes to this drawer front, making sure to keep the drawer front level as I installed each box.

The bins slide easily in and out from under the crib, and work fantastically as clothes storage (and also looks nice).

I allow the feet of the crib to be the drawer guide, which leads to some wiggling of the drawer (and some chafing on the wood), but it slides back in so easily that I don’t sweat it.

Done!

~ by Ian Chesner

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Items Used:
FINNBY Bookcase – Red (6)
Flat metal plate strap – 3”x7″ (30)
#8 3/4” wood screws – A Bajillion

My wife makes things with leather, vinyl and fabric. She collects large quantities of these items, usually by the roll. Storage has always been an issue because the leather and vinyl need to lay flat rather than stand on end. We’ve tried a number of different types of shelving but nothing was ever long enough or adjustable enough to have the right configuration of shelves. While walking through IKEA one afternoon, we saw the FINNBY bookcase and noticed they were available in red. Since red is her favorite color, I decided this would be perfect for a hack!

The basic concept is to assemble all of the bookcases, without the backing, then place them in front of each other to make one very deep storage cabinet. Here’s the step by step:

Assemble 1 FINNBY bookcase. Do not add the backing.
Decide where you want your shelves and insert the pins for them now.

Assemble another FINNBY bookcase. Do not add the backing.
Insert pins for shelving so they match up with the first bookcase.
Stand this bookcase in front of the first one.

Attach the two bookcases to each other by screwing plate straps at the top, bottom and under the center shelf on the inside of both the right and left sides. On the inside of the bookcase, at the top, hold the strap so that the screw holes cover the front part of the back bookcase and the back part of the front bookcase. Screw the plate in place. Repeat the process under the center shelf and again just above the bottom shelf. It’s helpful if you have someone else hold the bookcases in place to make sure the sides match up. ( I don’t have a photo of this from this project, see note below as to why. Including a photo from a similar project for explanation.)
Place shelves on both units. They should match up.

Assemble another FINNBY bookcase. Do not add the backing.
Insert pins for shelving.
Stand the backless bookcase in front of the others.
Attach the front bookcase to the one behind it using more plate straps as in step 4.
Put the shelves in place.
Repeat until all 6 bookcases have been assembled and are standing one in front of the other.
Load that puppy up with a bunch of stuff!

Notes: When I first assembled this, I didn’t attach each one as I went along because I thought it would hold up on it’s own and the bolts of material would be heavy enough to hold it in place. It wasn’t so a few days later, a friend used long pieces of metal tie strap and crawled inside to screw them all together. We also had another issue where the rolls of material were putting so much pressure on the sides of the unit that they bowed out and the shelves fell. To solve this, we screwed the shelves in from the outside. If you’re using this hack to store heaving round things like bolts of fabric, I’d recommend doing the same.

~ by Gayla Worrell

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IKEA item: Skruvsta Office Chair

Other Materials: 3 to 4 pairs of old jeans, pattern paper, staple gun, sewing machine. needle thread pins & scissors.

Steps:

1. Using the pattern paper make a paper pattern of the Skurvsta Chair. The chair seat is comprised of 6 sections so you should have six paper pieces.

2. Using your paper pattern cut out six pieces of denim from your old jeans. On the blog I show you how you can make large pieces of denim from deconstructing and reconstructing your jeans.

3. Pin and sew the denim pieces together.
4. Slip the denim cover over your chair. Using pins and a staple gun, staple firmly into place. Matching up the seams in your denim with the seams in the chair.

5. To make a cover for the seat pad. Draw round the seat pad on your jeans and cut out two pieces of denim. Pin and sew right sides together leaving an opening for the pad. Turn the denim right sides out, squeeze in pad into the cover and stitch up the opening.

For more detailed instructions visit my blog.

~ by Claire Armstrong

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Materials:

• IKEA MÅLA easel
• Left over Federika fabric and assorted fabric
• Adhesive black board vinyl
• Hot glue
• Strings from recycled shopping bags

Basic structure
1) Remove the frame and legs of the easel.
2) Place a 1 inch by 1 inch wooden strip between the white and black boards. Hold it down with a couple of staples.
3) Wrap the perimeter of the boards with leftover fabric and cover the final layer with Federika fabric.
4) Drill two holes and add the strings from the shopping bags.

Repurpose
1) For the white board, it is now a daily to do list for my daughter. I’ve used the black board adhesive over it because the original white board has lots of scratches and dents.

2) For the blackboard, it is a responsibilities chart and reward thingy for her. I have printed and laminated the tasks for her and attached Velcros on both the tasks and the board.

Additionally I have added a magnetic board that I got from IKEA for $6 below the chart. Allowing her to practice simple spelling eg eat, cat, days of the week etc…

The final step is to hang them on the wall, specifically above her writing table.

Time taken: about 3 days (2-3 hours/ day)

~ by Grace

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When some of us need more storage, we just grab whatever boxes and containers. But not Brian Oltrogge. He takes an old BEKVÄM kitchen cart which he was using as a computer stand and hacks it into a beautiful workbench, or VÖRKBENSH as he calls it.

Check out the video. This hack is in no way easy but he makes it seem effortless.

Thanks Richard!

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1. MYDAL with STUVA + BILLY

- 3 x Ikea Stuva storage combination 60 x 128cm
- 3 x Ikea Stuva Grundlig leg set.
- 1 x Ikea Billy bookcase 106 x 80cm
- 1 x Ikea Billy 35 x 80 extension unit.
- 1 x Ikea Mydal bed. Only top part and with only one side frame. Also fixed from 90 x 200cm to 80 x 200cm.
- 1 x night stand. From left over parts of Mydal bed.
- 1 x Ikea Sultan mattress. Fixed from 90 x 200 to 73 x 200cm.
- 1 x 2″x4″ wood to only open corner to make bed stronger and steady enough.
- 1 x DIY-ladder
- Some chain to keep night stand steady.
- Everything is screwed together and the whole complex is very heavy and also very steady.

2. METOD kitchen cabinets + BILLY

Metod is the kitchen cabinet range sold in Finland.
- 2 x Ikea Metod 20 x 60 x 80cm to back side to support the frame. These + 40cm and 60cm cabinets make the bed frame to size 80 x 200cm.
- 2 x Ikea Metod 60 x 60 x 60cm to the middle.
- 2 x Ikea Metod 40 x 60 x 80cm to the sides.
- 4 x Ikea Häggeby doors. (2 x 40cm and 2 x 60cm)
- 10 x Ikea shelves. ( 4 x 60 x 60, 4 x 40 x 60, 2 x 20 x 60cm)
- 1 x Ikea Billy bookcase 202 x 80cm as a head board.
- 1 x 80 x 200 bed. My bed not from Ikea.
- 3 x 40 x 200cm melamine. 2 under bed and 1 to protect kid from falling.
- 1 one of those 20cm wide cabinets is assembled to far end corner and it can be used.
- Cabinets are 60cm deep and there can be put a lot of stuff in.
- Bed has got no stairs yet only one Ikea shelf to work as temporary stairs.
- Also lights to the top of Billy is still in Ikea.

~ by Mikko Salovaara, Lempäälä, Finland

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Because I recently wanted to do a behind the scenes video I wanted to use a teleprompter only to find out that cheap ones would at least take two weeks for shipping and the professional grade ones came in 400€+. So I thought “The principle is easy I am going to build one myself.”

Here is a list of parts I used:

- 2 Ikea Ribba 21x30cm picture frames 9,00€
- 1 Ikea Gurli 50x50cm pillowcase 5,00€
- 4 cable clamps + 4 screws 1,00€
- 2 hinges + 8 screws 2,00€
- 1 wooden scantling 1,50€
- 1 wooden board 0,70€

The principle of a teleprompter is simple so that the main parts I needed were two picture frames and hinges.

I connected both picture frames with hinges, then screwed the wooden board to the bottom for better stability.

I screwed cable clamps to the board so that the teleprompter could slide onto my camera rig.

Lastly I cut open a black pillowcase to shadow the camera and the area behind the glass.

In order to display the text mirrored and have it scrolling I used the free android app “simple teleprompter” which can do all you really need.

More info here.

~ by Ralf

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I have an old Ikea TV Bench (something like a Besta?). You could do this with a Besta or something similar. My bench holds a number of 90s hi-fi components. I wanted to find a way to tidy up the cords. This would also make it easy to sweep dust from behind the unit. Besides the cords from the hi-fi system itself, there were cords from the internet modem and wireless router components. I wanted to have my internet connections right by the entertainment system for streaming television or music.

Here’s BEFORE:

Here’s what it looks like AFTER:

And the key is BEHIND the unit – I’ve circled in red the drawer on the right side. You can see the wires and modem, etc. secured to the pegboard with the whole drawer pushed in. The one on the left is extended, and you can see the wires and power bars in the process of being fastened.

The idea was to add a frame underneath that would RAISE the entire unit by about half a foot. That extra 6-inches of clearance would create the space to put in some drawers. From the front and sides you have a beautiful wood finish panel, and the TV is perched 6-inches higher. The drawers would be made of pegboard so that components could be securely fastened, cords tied down. Push the drawer in, and everything is out of sight.

Ingredients:

-Besta TV Bench, or something close to it

The TV bench is ~57.25 inches wide by ~17.75 inch deep; below notes provide cut pieces of lumber and pegboard.

You should take your own measurements, as my TV bench probably won’t be quite the same as yours. But if it is, the below should work.

First, I sanded and shellacked the cuts of pine:

I turned the unit upside down and laid out the pieces that would assemble into the frame. There were five existing wheel casters I had to remove from the bottom. I kept those. Those wheels (except for the middle one), would have to be secured to the completed frame. For the replacement wheel in the middle of the unit, I purchased a thinner mount. In retrospect I should’ve bought thinner wheels for all four corners, too. Ultimately I could get three out of four screws into the four outside corners of the assembled frame, and that was strong enough.

I tried out the pegboard pieces to make sure they would fit inside the frame measurements. Remember to leave enough room for the drawer slides. The lumber cuts I’ve indicated should provide a 3/8 inch gap of space, leaving room for the slides.

I assembled the frame using pegs. To get the pegs to fit properly along the lengths of pine frame, I used a piece of wood with holes pre-drilled. This was a guide for ensuring when I drilled into (i) the frame or (ii) the bottom of unit, that the correct hole separation (for pegs) was achieved.

It was a bit of a process to drill holes for the dowel joints. Once the frame was assembled, I also decided to screw in some 90-degree brackets at the corners. Then I inserted the pegs into the holes along the frame, for attaching to the unit’s underside. You could wood glue the whole frame to the bottom of the unit for added strength.
I attached the drawer slides to the frame (outside slides). I attached the inside slides to the pegboard.
I fastened the wheel casters back onto the frame. (As I mentioned before, I could get three out of four screws into the wood at the corners of the frame. The wheels attached securely, but it might be best to use mounts that better match the 1.5 inch width of the frame… like the wheel along the mid-centre)

Then I turned the entire unit right side up. Inserted the pegboard drawers.

Attached the components and cords to the pegboard:

Done. No more jungle of wires behind the unit. Simply roll the unit away from the wall to sweep dust.

~ by Tinu

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One year ago, I sent you some pictures of robots that I created from IKEA among other items . Here the youngest: “Fire and water”
Summer is great for outdoor seconds hands markets. Often I find IKEA items. This time, I got 2 feet from a Sultan bed and a pair of Kvart lamps.

I had this small fire extinguisher for a long time, which I don’t know what to do with.

The opportunity was good. I simply used the feet as it is and attached them to the fire extinguisher.

For the lamps, I stripped them for having a metal unity. Then I also screwed to the red body.

To complete the set, as a head I used an old brass sink drain.

Finally, here is a single lamp, resulting from recycled materials and diverted from its original purpose.

~ by Eric

See more robots on my site, Gille Monte Ruici.

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Step 1

Mill a 5mm deep line in the TJUSIG body. That’s where the DIODER light fits in.

Step 2

Glue and screw all other parts and sink the screws into the body.

Step 3

Fill the holes and sand the TJUSIG hanger. Prepare for painting.

Step 4

Paint in any color you like.

Step 5

Hide the DIODER cable in the wall and drill a hole into the TJUSIG wall mount.

Step 6

Now install the DIODER light into the TJUSIG body and put everything together.

Finish!!

I made a video of the entire process.

~ by Christian Cyfus

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I had an old double bathroom sink in a terrible state when I bought the house.
The contractor working in my house, told me to throw this old disgusting bathroom furniture.
I was doubtful about the statement and decided to give it a try and to give it a new life.
After some reflection, I decided to try looking at the IKEA METOD meant for kitchen only.

IKEA items:

• 1 x 902.056.29 METOD 80x37x80 BLACK
• 2 x 602.056.78 Tingsryd front 80 x 20 BLACK
• 1 x 802.046.30 Maximera 80x 37 Low drawer
• 1 x 802.056.82 Tingsryd frond 80 x40 BLACK
• 1 x 002.214.50 Maximera 80 x 37 Top drawer
• 1 x 402.807.82 Tingsryd plinth BLACK
• 2 x 001.166.99 Vinna handle

It’s simple.
I took the metal milk (bar) we normally use in the upper front to reinforce the structure, fold the ends 90 degrees and integrate it at the desired height.

I also remote the wall brackets from 1 distance to have it directly on the wall and finish it properly with silicone.

~ by Michel Van Haudenhuyse

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My mudroom was cramped, dark and messy.

Mudroom – before

I wanted a beautiful, custom mudroom but didn’t want to pay a custom price. I started looking at IKEA bookcases and wardrobes and realized that I could have the mudroom of my dreams by using Pax components. Now my mudroom is organized, bright and cheery.

Mudroom – after

IKEA products used:

• 1 Pax wardrobe 702.145.59 (19 5/8×22 7/8×93 1/8 “)
• 2 Pax wardrobe 002.145.72 (39 1/4×13 3/4×93 1/8 “)
• 1 Bersbo door 899.041.80 (19 5/8 x 90 1/8)
• 4 Bergsbo doors 098.959.81 (19 5/8 x 76 3/4)
• 2 Komplement drawers 702.467.58 (39 3/8″ x 13 3/4)
• 2 Komplement wire baskets 790.109.54
• 4 Komplement shelves 002.779.89
• 2 Komplement shelves 302.779.59
• 4 sets of skubb boxes, 3 per set

1) Assemble Pax wardrobe 702.145.59 according to IKEA instructions.
2) Assemble Pax wardrobes 002.145.72 according to IKEA instructions but install the bottom of the wardrobe 17 inches up from the bottom. Leave the leveling feet off and also leave the front toekick board off.
3) Install the wardrobes by anchoring them to the wall as per the IKEA instructions and attached the wardrobes to each other with the included hardware.
4) Attached the 90 1/8 tall door to the 22 7/8″ x 93 1/8″ cabinet.
5) Attached the 76 3/4 doors to the other wardrobes, starting at the top. leave the bottom 17 inches of the cabinet open.
6) Install a Komplement drawer directly below the doors in the open space on each wardrobe. (I swapped out the included rails, for full extension slides for better accessibility to the contents.)

The inside of the wardrobes were fitted with coat hook rails, skubb boxes, shelves and wire baskets for organizing all our things.

Crown moulding and base moulding were added for a built in look. Although the photos don’t show this well, we gained a foot in width in this hall space. Our previous closet and coat hook area was 27 inches deep but the IKEA Pax wardrobes we used, for the majority of the space, were only 15 inches deep including the doors. However, we actually gained additional storage since the Pax wardrobes have usable storage all the way to the ceiling.

~ by Deborah Anderson

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Item hacked: Tuffing bunk bed

First assemble the bunk bed omitting one of the lower bunk long horizontal beams.

For the upper bunk, there are 7 bed slats and netting. I inserted only the 1st, 3rd, 5th and 7th slat into the netting and attached it to the upper bunk with screws as per the instructions.

Then, I fixed the 4th slat underneath the netting. This will be used to tuck the hammock underneath the bed when not in use.

As there is no lower bunk, there will be an extra netting from the lower bunk bed base which I used for the hammock. Insert a slat into end of the net, then affix it to the 2nd slat place of the upper bunk, underneath the netting of the upper bunk.

Repeat with the other end of the net, affixing it to the 6th slat place of the upper bunk.

Voila! You’re done!

As a note, my husband of 90kg has sat in it without breaking anything. Also, with a human weight in the hammock, it will sag down until about 10-15 cm above the floor, so it is super safe.

~ by mousieyee

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IKEA items used: 3 Lack tables

1. Assemble your Lack tables as per the instructions.
2. With a little bit of wood glue, secure one table on top of another, then once that’s dried, add the third table with more glue. A little goes a long way!
3. Wrap the legs with sisal rope.
4. I attached a scratching board with cable ties to give it more support and width as well as the sisal leg.
5. Spray the entire structure with catnip spray and watch your cats flock to it!

~ by Doctor Loulittle

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IKEA items used:
Two FROSTA stools

I made a spill-resistant wine table from two FROSTA stools and a leftover chair base.

This uses two ubiquitous IKEA stools and a base of a chair that your neighbour is throwing away. Luckily, IKEA stool legs fit snugly into the triangular holes in the base.

Sketched my design in Blender and traced the cut lines onto the FROSTA stool.

Cut using a drill and a jigsaw. I also cut three cm off of the short end of the legs.

Cut off the legs and rounded them with a belt sander, routed some corners. The holes are sized such that either a ubiquitous COSTCO big wine glass or IKEA sparkling wine glass will fit.

In this photo I’m using the remainders of the cut-off legs to align the base so I can screw it to the glass holder.

See complete tutorial here.

Thanks!

~ by David LaHeist

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This shoe wardrobe is sooooo old I can’t find it on any IKEA sites and I can’t find the usual sticker, but I’m guessing there’s others out there!

It was actually the first ever piece of IKEA furniture I bought… It could just as easily be made from a cut down BILLY bookcase, or any other old IKEA shelving unit at hand.

So this is it before I started, with the sliding doors removed.

I bought some black paper, a white pen and some yellow and black chevron tape.

I marked up some parking bays on the paper, stuck it to the shelves with double sided tape and then used the chevron tape to mark the to parking zone on one end, and the edges to make it look more industrial.

Done! Sonny boy loves it and I don’t trip over tiny cars in the kitchen anymore!

Hope you like it!

~ by Sarah

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The Project:

In a corner of the hallway, I decided to replace the coat rack and garden seat (not shown) with a cupboard using IKEA sliding doors. The space is +/-1650 x 560mm.

IKEA items:

• PAX sliding door kit, 200x150cm, 80222417
• 2x AULI mirror kit for above, 60211274
• 2x KOMPLEMENT soft closing devices, 20202323

Modifications:

1. The top IKEA rail fixes on top of their PAX cupboards and is about 10mm longer than the inside measurement (1500-18-18mm). To fit it inside my woodwork, I cut 5mm off each end.

2. As standard, the right-hand door is on the inside. To be difficult, I wanted the left-hand door to be the the inside one. This is perfectly OK* – just be careful when fitting the stick-on brushes, etc. (pages 18, 26 & 32 of the IKEA document). *If you are fitting the soft closing devices, note that the finger bracket (Komplement document, page 10) for the outside door is not reversible, so when 1 door is fully open, you lose about 8cm passage width, compared with the standard arrangement. Maybe one day, I will fix that!

3. End stops/bumpers (Komplement document, page 4): I used the original ones and just cut off the clips which hold the door in its closed position (these clips are not necessary with the soft closing devices).

Construction:

1. Choose planed timber for the frames, keeping in mind the height of any other doors nearby (living room door in my case). I used 30x90mm timber for the floor (gives a good height for the lower rail in my case). These were fixed to the floor tiles with adhesive, screws and plugs. Be careful when drilling in the tiles, and don’t hit any pipes, etc.! I used 45×45 timber for the walls.

2. As I am not using the IKEA PAX cupboard, the top rail fits on the lower edge of the MDF panel above the doors. The dimension (height) of this panel above the floor frame is 1930mm. If you are patient, you can confirm this by assembling one edge of a door and measuring all the bits. In my case, I went to the local IKEA store with my tape measure! This distance is critical: less means that the guides on the lower edge of the doors risk jumping out of the rail, more means that these guides will bind (in this case, you could shim the lower rail).

3. I drilled 7 holes in the top rail, and used 4×60 chipboard screws to attach it to the upper panel. It was easier to prepare this before fitting the panel in place. In the photo, the panel is flipped and held conveniently in place for this operation by the new woodwork.

4. The front and side panels are 18mm MDF. When fixing the timber on the walls, I allowed for the thickness of the panels beside the living room door frame and on the right-hand side (to align with the existing wall). The side panel was fitted first, then the upper front panel (adjusted for height), then the left-hand filler panel.

5. The filler panel to the left of the sliding doors was adjusted to give +/- 1500mm from the right-hand edge to the groove in the filler panel. This groove is to accommodate the IKEA edge profile. I used a circular saw for the groove. In my case, this measurement is 1491mm, which gave a good closing position for the doors, relative to the edge profiles.

6. Assembling the doors. Fitting the mirrors into the door metalwork was not going well, until I used a ratchet cargo strap to squeeze the bits together (both ways, X & Y) so that the screw holes lined up. Not sure if even 2 people (IKEA minimum requirement) could do this without the strap!

7. For the edging of the doors (brush and flexible flap), in my case, the brush went on the left-hand edge of the left-hand/inside door and the flap was fixed on the right-hand edge of the right-hand/outside door (not like in the IKEA instructions!).

Lighting:

On the top rail, I fitted a 1m strip of 24V leds, turned on by Legrand furniture door switches, which are operated by the fingers of the soft closing devices. The 24VDC supply is in the connection box.

An interesting hack here would be to incorporate the light switches in the soft closing devices. It’s not obvious how these things come apart. Maybe someone will invest in a set and play about!

Inside the cupboard

I added some shelves behind the filler panel, and there was a nice space for the modem below. As I didn’t want to use the 235cm door and didn’t want to add swing doors in the upper panel, I fitted a half-depth top shelf, under which is the coat rail.

~ by Richard King, Belgium

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IKEA items used: Trofast Frames (17 3/8x 35 7/8), Bygel Rails and Containers, Jules Desk Chairs, Vaggis Noticeboard

This was inspired by the Lego table created at That Mommy Blog. We were looking for kid desk workstations for three kids (age 7, 4, and 3) and a place to accommodate a computer.

1. Attach 1×2 supports to sides of the Trofast frames. We used a 20 inch deep table top so the supports are 15 1/2″ long. Allow space for another 1×2 to go across the back of the desktop.

2. Attach 1×2 to the back of the middle section.

3. Cut table top(s) to size. We used a 20×44 for the middle, 20×22 for the right side, and 20×25 for the computer station. The 22 is a minimum if you want to accommodate the Bygel rails.

4. Attach 2×2 legs to the desk top using leg plates and hanger bolts.

5. Attach table tops to the frames.

6. Use 1×3′s to build support for Bygel rails and attach to frames.

7. Varnish desktops. We also bought plastic desk mats to further protect from pen marks and also provide a space for them to put their art underneath.

~ by Tim Krieger

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Ikea items used: 6x Lack Tables, 1 set of 3x Skubb storage boxes

I spent a good few weeks looking for something like this and couldn’t find it either on Pinterest, your site, google images etc. so thought I would share! I made a corner couch/snug for under my daughter’s bed using 6 LACK tables, the original desk that came with the bed, cushion foam, some paint and some fabric.

Here’s my step by step.

1. Build 3x LACK tables as normal.

2. Use the tops of the 3 remaining tables and glue to the built tables to make 3 cubes.

3. Once set, paint insides of cubes (if desired) my daughter’s room is pink/teal/flamingo themed, so we decided to paint the cubes pink.

4. Size up cushion foam. Either buy large and cut to fit top of structure, or like me you can purchase 3x made to measure squares at 55x55cm each at a cost of around £10 online.

5. Glue cubes together to make the unit structure. I used No Nails and also Gorilla Glue. Once together I held them together tightly with cables ties and then cut off once fully set.

6. For the seating on top I used the desk that came with the bed as the base board, glued the cushion foam into place, then wrapped this in batting and finally the fabric which was stapled into place. The seating is not attached to the base structure to give the option of changing over time. The base board (desk) is very heavy so robust enough to not move easily. Also used IKEA Skubb storage boxes (set of 3) for underneath.

7. End result.

~ by Laura Lawson

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